Favorite Plus One Boards
5’10 x 18 ¼ x 2 1/16 Round Tail “Score”
5’ 8 x 18 ¼ x 2 1/8 Swallow Tail “Nano”
6’6 x 18 x 2 ¼ Gun “Show”
2008 33rd Cold Water Classic Santa Cruz WQS
2007 Surf for the Sea 1st place Oceanside
2006 Collegiate National Champion NSSA
What is your best surfing memory?
It’s interesting, surfing always makes me feel better than I felt prior to paddling out. So, in a way it’s almost like my last session is always my best memory. However, considering quality of waves, crowding, and board of choice, I recently had a session that really stands out. It was in Hawaii ’09 on the north shore. Ed Short, Dan House and I went looking down toward Mokalia, a less windy spot during Kona winds. We found a heaving beach reef break, offshore winds, bright blue water, no one out for miles. A wedging left came from deep water, cornering on the reef and forming a horseshoe section. We surfed for a couple hours, soaking in the vivid blue of the water, and alternately terrifying one another at the thought of tiger sharks and rapid, powerful surf. Sources tell me that the wave is not surfed often, although Sean Moody is one well-renowned fan .One thing is certain: I will check that spot again.
What is the last book you read? Your favorite book?
The last book I read was The Rider by Tim Krabbe. The story is told from the perspective of a cyclist competing in a one-day race in Belgium. It was a quick read, fun and fast moving- particularly if you enjoy road biking. My favorite book is the Kite Runner by Khaled Hosseini, a unforgettable story. I tend to like realistic novels inspired by true stories, or non-fiction books. I enjoy reading about real issues because it inspires me and gives me food for thought. I daydream big and often.
Tell us one embarrassing story about some member of the Plus One Staff or team…
Tread lightly. I could say a lot about our little crew, we are OBetions a goofy breed. For example, just to give a taste: Lane overuses a gay accent, Jordan shot himself, Shiloh wears a Leonard surf hat to dinner, Pat Q has never owned his own board, Little Nate screams every surf session, Dan crashed the Oggi’s delivery car, Ed takes supplements, Josh only eats processed foods, Bryson favorite T’s are V necks. As for a story, a simple one that comes to mind is when JulianMullins, JoeVirgilio and I went to France about six years ago. Joe, our chaperone, lost his passport and went to find it at a police headquarters. Julian and I were a little fuzzy headed but still wanted to help him so we packed the car. When Joe returned he was happy and had his passport in hand and the car was all packed. Twenty minutes up the highway three coffin bags went soaring from the roof. Julian and my boards landed safely alongside the freeway, untouched. Joe’s boards, freshly shaped for the trip, were wedged into the center divide…in pieces.